|
Paint Bombs
by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink,
purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the
dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends
on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone,
you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
-Jolly Roger-
Counterfeiting Money
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the
method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should
be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal block. Since etching
a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece
of masking
material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are then exposed
to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing
chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side
of the bill, and 1 of
the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table.
Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The
back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are
registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1
negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing
it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades
of green are created
by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate
and etch three marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the
short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area
you have already burned. Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should
now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should
have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well. Take the
paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in.
Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix
the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial
number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean
the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers. Print
a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers
as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount
of money by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the following
in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with
this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye
all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds
on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article
will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie
"To Live and Die in LA". It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how
to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting: The Canon
color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency. But, once
again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!........
Credit Card Fraud:
-----------------
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the
items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit
card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These
can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind
the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during
business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations
Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will
you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination!
Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card examples:
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date.
The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.
[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE
SHMOE
Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process.
The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent
number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation,
but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.
[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE
Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere.
The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much
safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing.
Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123
6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union
cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code,
and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address
Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal
charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money),
and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses
use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone
makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then
give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register.
It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial
and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account
number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will
give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check
it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes
dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can
trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some
will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the
card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once.
The following are
typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent
place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8
to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real
estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale,
and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package
arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and
they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This
is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people
have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site,
keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the
phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your
voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect
this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer
UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using
American Express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also,
if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't
encourage
investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one
is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature
for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud.
Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!
First compiled in JRII..
-= Exodus =-
Picking Master Locks
by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too
hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open
when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the
number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing
the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob.
The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob.
If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right,
and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and
they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
The older models are from 1988-1990. The newer models are being
cracked on as we speak..
-= Exodus =-
'94
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The
Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then
go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can
spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere.
The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the
best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope.
It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole
slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your
pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your
tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above
the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | |
/ E
| | |
| \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H
[^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder
wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes
in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling
back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver
will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first
time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
Add to TACIV, '94.
-= Exodus =-
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The Jolly
Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then
go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can
spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere.
The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the
best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope.
It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole
slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your
pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your
tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above
the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | |
/ E
| | |
| \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H
[^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^
^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder
wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes
in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling
back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver
will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first
time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.
Add to TACIV, '94.
-= Exodus =-
-= Exodus =-High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev. 4.14 by -= Exodus
=-
-------------Introduction-------------
Have
you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with
one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named
it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which
is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
---------Construction and Use---------
The
construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires.
These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green
(tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring
and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires
(red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end
of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them
aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular
jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that
are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.
------------Beige Box Uses------------
There
are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This
device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin
heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good
pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your
hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output
device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered
a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals.
On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R"
(Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the
red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other
terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the
number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:
> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static
free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing
(also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly
reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an
extension of that line.
Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates
the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it
is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait,
and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter
is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you
are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.
Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the
NPA.
Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000
and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and
are more dificult to come by.
Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described,
you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them).
In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not
be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply
ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described
section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...
Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you
live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...
---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result
in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:
> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low
profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing
the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your
heart's content.
Exodus-
Touch Explosives
by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such
as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the
excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words,
just let it sit overnight!).
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small
fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have
fun! -Jolly Roger-
Letter Bombs
by The Jolly Roger
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a
closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate
the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder
in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that
works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want
to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered
magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of
a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the
fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).
NOW that is REVENGE! -Jolly
Roger-
How to make Napalm
by the Jolly Roger
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!
-Exodus-
œ’€K GŽ
‰ 1
Œœ€„
3.90 ’€‹_‹€
Œ
€H™
1* (20!)-YOU-SUCK
EliTe MaIL
2* (20!)-REAL-BAD
-=( NO LEECHES )=-
FL, PA, NY, CA
2 RinGdoWN 9600's
CoNNexioNs
1 LocAl 57000 !@
-0+ DaY WarEZ ۏ‡‹_Ÿœˆh
The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us
-----------------------
Materials Needed
Here's a GREAT little trick to play on
1] One Ball Point `Click` pen
your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at
2] Gun Powder
skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a
3] 8 or 10 match heads
friend!
4] 1 Match stick
5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")
1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen
clicker where the other little
parts and the ink fill was.
3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick
that is in the clicker.
4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on
the
inside on the sand paper.
5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where
the ball
point comes out.
6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is
to keep the
powder from spilling.
The Finished pen should look like this:
Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \
|
|
\ | |
\ _________________|____________________|________
<_______________________________|_______________|===
call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (xxx) xxx-xxxx
-= Exodus=- makin' more for '94
LOCKPICKING 3
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lockpick
is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage
with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of professional lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then
there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices
which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum
from cans, thin
pocket knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all
these tools and devices
are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the
latch out of its recess in the wall, thus allowing the door to open.
This is
done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and forcing
the latch back into the door.
Most modern doorknob locks have two fingers. The larger finger holds the door
closed while the second (smaller) finger
only prevents the first finger from
being pressed in when it (the second finger) is pressed in by the catchplate
of
the door. If you can separate the catch plate and the lock sufficiently
far, the second finger will slip out enough
to permit the first finger to be
slipped.
(Ill. 2.11) ___
| } <
Small -> (| } <---
The large (first) finger
second |___} <
finger
Some methods for getting through locked doors are:
1) Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the
frame around
the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to
the above methods. This is possible
because most door frames are designed
with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into
position
horizontally across the frame in the vicinity of the latch, and jack it
out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the jack after
shutting the door, which
will relock the door and leave few signs of
forced entry. This technique will not work in concrete
block buildings,
and it's difficult to justify an auto jack to the security guards.
2) use a screwdriver or two to pry the lock and door apart. While holding
them apart, try
to slip the lock. Screwdrivers, while not entirely
innocent, are much more subtle than auto
jacks, and much faster if they
work. If you're into unsubtle, I suppose a crowbar would
work too, but
then why bother to slip the lock at all?
3) Find a set of double doors.
They are particularly easy to pry apart far
enough to slip.
4) If the lock is occasionally
accessible to you while open, "adjust" or
replace the catchplate to make it operate more suitably
(i.e., work so
that it lets *both* fingers out, so that it can always be slipped). If
you want, disassembling the lock and removing some of the pins can make
it much easier to pick.
5) If, for some odd reason, the hinges are on your side (i.e., the door
opens outward), remove
the hinge pins (provided they aren't stopped with
welded tabs). Unfortunately, this too
lacks subtlety, in spite of its
effectiveness.
6) If the door cannot be slipped and
you will want to get through regularly,
break the mechanism. Use of sufficient force to
make the first finger
retreat while the second finger is retreated will break some locks (e.g.,
Best locks) in such a way that they may thereafter be slipped trivially,
yet otherwise work in
all normal ways. Use of a hammer and/or
screwdriver is recommended. Some care should be
used not to damage the
door jamb when attempting this on closed and locked doors, so as not to
attract the attention of the users/owners/locksmith/police/....
7) Look around in desks. People very often
leave keys to sensitive things
in them or other obvious places. Especially keys to shared
critical
resources, like supply rooms, that are typically key-limited but that
everyone needs access to. Take measurements with a micrometer, or make a
tracing (lay key
under paper and scribble on top), or be dull and make a
wax impression. Get blanks for the
key type (can be very difficult for
better locks; I won't go into methods, other than to say that
if you can
get other keys made from the same blank, you can often work wonders with
a little ingenuity) and use a file to reproduce the key. Using a
micrometer works best:
keys made from mic measurements are more likely
to work consistently than keys made by any other
method. If you us
tracings, it is likely to take many tries before you obtain a key that
works reliably. Also, if you can 'borrow' the cylinder and disassemble
it, pin levels can
be obtained and keys constructed.
8) Simple locks, like desks, can be picked fairly easily. Many desks have
simple three or four pin locks of only a few levels, and can be
consistently picked by a patient
person in a few minutes. A small
screwdriver and a paper clip will work wonders in practiced
hands. Apply
a slight torque to the lock in the direction of opening with the
screwdriver. Then 'rake' the pins with the unfolded paper clip. With
practice, you'll
apply enough pressure with the screwdriver that the pins
will align properly (they'll catch on
the cylinder somewhere between the
top and bottom of their normal travel), and once they're all
lined up,
additional pressure on the screwdriver will then open the lock. This, in
conjunction with (7) can be very effective. This works better with older
or sloppily machined
locks that have a fair amount of play in the
cylinder. Even older quality locks can be picked
in this manner, if
their cylinders have been worn enough to give enough play to allow pins
to catch reliably. Even with a well worn quality lock, though, it
generally takes a *lot* of patience.
9) Custodial services often open up everything in sight and then take
breaks. Make the most
of your opportunities.
10) No matter what you're doing, look like you belong there. Nothing makes
anyone more suspicious than someone skulking about, obviously trying to
look inconspicuous.
If there are several of you, have some innocuous and
normal seeming warning method ("Hey, dummy!
What time is it?") so that
they can get anything suspicious put away. Don't travel in large
groups
at 3 AM. Remember, more than one car thief has managed to enlist a cop's
aid in breaking into a car. Remember this. Security people usually
*like* to help
people. Don't make them suspicious or annoy them. If you
do run into security people,
try to make sure that there won't be any
theft or break-ins reported there the next day...
11)
Consider the possibilities of master keys. Often, every lock in a
building or department
will have a common master (building entrance keys
are a common exception). Take apart some
locks from different places
that should have common masters, measure the different pin lengths
in
each, and find lengths in common. Experiment. Then get into those
places you're *really* curious about.
12) Control keys are fun, too. These keys allow the user to remove the
lock's core, and are generally masters. (A pair of needle nose pliers or
similar tool can
then be used to open the lock, if desired.)
SLIPPING A LOCK
The best material we've found for slips so far is soft sheet copper. It
is quite flexible,
so it can be worked into jambs easily, and can be pre-bent
as needed. In the plane of the sheet, however, it is fairly
strong, and pulls
nicely. Of course, if they're flexible enough, credit cards, student IDs,
etc., work just fine
on locks that have been made slippable if the door jamb
is wide enough. Wonderfully subtle, quick, and delightfully
effective. Don't
leave home without one.
(Ill. #1)
The sheet should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that
looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
(Ill. #2)
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
(Ill. #3)
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
We hasten to add here that many or most colleges and universities
have very strict policies about unauthorized possession
of keys. At
most, it is at least grounds for expulsion, even without filing criminal
charges. Don't get
caught with keys!!! The homemade ones are
particularly obvious, as they don't have the usual stamps and marks
that
the locksmiths put on to name and number the keys.]
we should also point out that if you make a nuisance of yourself, there are
various nasty things that can be done to
catch you and/or slow you down. For
instance, by putting special pin mechanisms in, locks can be made to trap any
key
used to open them. If you lose one this way, what can I say? At least
don't leave fingerprints on it.
Or make sure they're someone else's. Too
much mischief can also tempt the powers that be to rekey.
-= Exodus =-
This is another good way to
Compiled by:
rip off a change or drink machine....
-= Exodus =-
You first get a nice new dollar to work with. Make sure there are no
rips in it. Now, you get a thin piece
of transparent plastic about
3/4 the width of the actual dollar. It must be a good 6" or longer.
Next, you need
some transparant tape. Scotch magic tape will work
the best. You simply tape the plastic strip to the dollar.
But, you
must be careful not to tape it more than 1/2" up the side of the dollar.
tape it on both sides (front and back,
not top and bottom) of the dollar.
Now, all you have to do is use it:
Walk casually up to the secluded machine. Take out your dollar, and put
it into the machine. BE CAREFUL!
Some of the more modern change machines
have alarms! Most likely, though, drink or candy machines will not.
Now,
the machine starts taking your dollar.... You wait until your plastic
strip is almost all the way into the machine,
and then you pull with
sufficient force to get the dollar out of the machine, but not rip it. If
You did it correctly,
you should have gotten whatever you bought, and still
have your dollar for later use. On candy machines, though,
make your
selection, and then wait and pull the dollar out. Don't worry if you don't
get it on the first few tries.
It took me about 5 tries to master it. It
DOES, i repeat DOES work for a fact if done correctly. If you just
can't
get it, though, either the machine is too sophisticated, or you put the
tape up too high on the dollar.
Have fun!!!!
a little annex to the
cookbook from
€Œd ŸlŠsh
ACID FLESH can be found on local BBS's in Northern New Jersey
Shaving Cream Bomb
--------EXODUS
-This may not really be what we would consider a bomb, but it is a
helluva great idea to phuck someone over.
You will need:
(1)-person you hate who has a car
(1)-container of liquid nitrogen (try a science shop, or Edmund
Scientific, mentioned in several places in this Cookbook)
(6-10)-cans of generic shaving cream
(1)-free afternoon (preferably in FREEZING temperatures outside)
(1-or more)-pairs of pliars, for cutting and peeling
some phriends
Directions:
Find someone who owns a small compact car, and manage to find out
where he keeps it at night (or while he is away!)
Be able to open
the car repeatedly.. Place a can in the liquid nitrogen for about 30
sec. Take it out and carefully
and QUICKLY peel off the metal
outside container, and you should have a frozen "block" of shaving
cream. (It
helps to have more than one container, and more phriends)
Toss it into the car and do the same with all the cans.
A dozen or
more "blocks" like this can fill and lightly PRESSURIZE a small
car. When he opens the door (hopefully
he doesn't realize the mess
inside due to the foggy windows), he will be covered with lbs of
shaving cream that is
a bitch to get out of upholstry.
PS!- Try to get one is his glove compartment!!!!!
Have Phunn....
------007
-Not many people use blue boxes these days. They've become an
eminent danger to phreakers. Ma Bell has new
equipment to detect the
use of tone-emmitting boxes, and about the only safe place to box
calls from is the handy-dandy
pay phone at the end of the block.
The only way to box calls today is to switch off to another
switching system with
another number: ie-
-call a store like Toys-'R'-Us, (1-908-322-6065 Livingston, NJ) and
ask for the technical (video game) department.
This switches the
number from the above to the extension of the department, usually
and extension, but it can be a
totally different # you are sent to
while you are on hold. This is VERY good. Bullshit the employee at
the tech
dept., and wait for HIM to hang up first. That disconnects
you from his department, but not from the innerconnections
of the
store. (it might even be possible to dial a number and get another
department at this point). This is
like 'stacking' trunks. Their
dialtone (inside the store) may have a slightly higher/lower pitch
than a dialtone at
your house. This is what you want. Now, blow
2600 accross the line, and you should have access to a trunk,
and
Bell Labs think that the store did it, and it is not usually
questioned because the computer might think that
it is part of their
paging system. (not 100% sure, test around)
-when someone (preferably who you don't give a shit about) calls,
dial *69 to ring him back.(if your area suscribes
to this feature)
What sould happen is that the *69 tone asks the Bell computer to
call back the person. The COMPUTER
does the calling at this point.
Now when your friend picks up, bullshit him into hanging up first.
Now
the computer is getting the dialtone first, then it passes it on
to you. If you blow 2600 at this point, the computer
may think it
is its own equipment doing the calling. I'm REALLY not sure about
this one. Hopefully this
one works, but I can't test it because
some fucked up, shit full, douche nozzle, pig fucker broke my
MF box. <frown>
MF boxes are not that hard to come by. Many hobby
shops, music instrument stores, or electronic stores may sell
the MF
box itself, or one that detects tones, which can be used in the
reverse way.
Good Technical Phone Numbers:
-sometimes the hardest part of getting technical support is finding
a place to look. An easy place is M.I.T.
(HOME OF THE ORIGINAL
PHREAKS) Find the number for the Electronic engineering campus, call
and say you would like
the number for (give room # make one up if
you have to), or call the person incharge of dorm assignments (buy a
college
book if you need to). Enentually, if done right, you will
have a list of possible #s, and set your modem on scan,
and look for
carrier detect. One of these nerds...ahm! I mean Geniuses must have
a computer with a modem, and
these guys will answer about 100% of
your technical problems.
Practical Jokes:
-if you are into practical jokes like I am, than here is a book for
you:
"The Second Official Handbook of Practical Jokes"
by: Peter Van Der Linden
There are hundreds of good practical jokes and phone scams, as well
as a section of computer jokes, with a whole
program of re-writing
the COMMAND.COM file to be funnier than ever.
<--* Out To Help The Common Phreak *-->
Lockpicking for the EXTREME beginner... Brought to you by:
-= Exodus =-
This is really a good method for opening doors that are locked. The
only problem with this, though, is that
it only works for outward
opening doors. Ok, here we go....
1) Realize you are not working with the actual lock, but that thing
that sticks between the
door and the wall.
2) See how that thing is curved on one side? Well, that is what we
will be making use
of.
3) Acquire a large paper-clip. If it is too short, it won't work.
You have to also
have a shoelace. Now, onto the construction...
4) Straighten the paper-clip.
5) Loop one end of the paper clip around the shoelace. The shoelace
should be about
4/5 on one side of the clip and 1/5 on the other.
Let's see if I can draw it.
------------------*************************************
-*
*******
--- is the paper clip
*** is the shoelace
That's not very good, but I hope you get the picture.
6) All you have to do now is curve the paper clip (no, I won't draw it)
7) With the curved paper-clip, stick it between the door and the wall,
behind the metal thing
that sticks between.
8) Feed it through with you hand, until you can grip both sides of the
shoelace.
9) Now, simply pull the lace and the door at the same time, and VIOLA!
the door is open.
I prefer this over regular lock-picking if the door opens outward, because
it is a lot quicker. Lock picking
can take 5 minutes... When done correctly
this only takes 30 seconds! So, if you can, use this.
another addition to the mighty cookbook by
ACID FLESH
Peanuts
Orig. by the Jolly Roger
Try this sometime when you are bored!
1) Take one pound of raw peanuts (not roasted!)
2) Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3) Eat the nuts.
4) Grind up the skins and roll them into a cigarette, and smoke!
You'll have fun, believe me! -------------Exodus-----------
LSD
courtesy of Exodus
I think, of all the drugs on the black market
today, LSD is
the strangest. It is the most recent major drug
to come to
life in the psychedelic subculture.
(Blah blah blah... let's
get to the good stuff: How to make it in
your kitchen!!)
1) Grind up 150 grams of Morning Glory seeds or baby Hawaiian
wood rose seeds.
2) In 130 cc. of petroleum ether, soak the seeds for two days.
3) Filter the solution through a tight screen.
4) Throw away the liquid, and allow
the seed mush to dry.
5) For two days allow the mush
to soak in 110 cc. of wood
alcohol.
6) Filter the solution again, saving the liquid and labeling
it "1."
7) Resoak the mush in 110 cc. of wood
alcohol for two
days.
8) Filter and throw away the mush.
9) Add the liquid from the second soak to the solution
labeled
"1."
10) Pour
the liquid into a cookie tray and allow it to
evaporate.
11) When all of the liquid has evaporated, a
yellow gum
remains. This should be scraped up and put into
capsules.
30 grams of Morning Glory seeds
= 1 trip
15 Hawaiian wood rose seeds
= 1 trip
Many companies, such as Northop-King have been coating
their
seeds with a toxic chemical, which is poison. Order seeds
from
a wholesaler, as it is much safer and cheaper. Hawaiian
wood
rose seeds can be ordered directly from:
Chong's Nursery and Flowers
P.O. Box 2154
Honolulu, Hawaii
LSD DOSAGES
-----------
The basic dosages of acid vary according to what kind of
acid
is available and what medium of ingestion is used. Chemically,
the potency of LSD-25 is measured in micrograms, or mics. If
you're chemically minded or making your own acid, then
computing the number of micrograms is very important. Usually
between 500 and 800 mics is plenty for an 8 hour trip,
depending on the quality of the acid, of course. I have heard
of people taking as much as 1,500-2,000 mics. This is not only
extremely
dangerous, it is extremely wasteful.
LSD comes packaged in many different forms.
The most common
are listed below:
1) The brown spot, or a piece of paper with a dried drop
of LSD on it, is always around. Usually one spot equals
one trip.
2) Capsuled acid is very tricky, as the cap can be almost
any color, size, or potency. Always ask what the acid is
cut with, as a lot of acid is cut with either speed or
strychnine. Also note dosage.
3) Small white or colored tablets
have been known to
contain acid, but, as with capsuled acid, it's impossible
to tell potency, without asking.
(from the Anarchist's Cookbook IV. Re-typed up by Exodus)
International Country Code Listing courtesy of
Exodus
Orig. by JR
*UNITED KINGDOM/IRELAND
------------------------------------
IRELAND.........................353
UNITED
KINGDOM...................44
*EUROPE
------------------------------------
ANDORRA..........................33
AUSTRIA..........................43
BELGIUM..........................32
CYPRUS..........................357
CZECHOLSLOVAKIA..................42
DENMARK..........................45
FINLAND.........................358
FRANCE...........................33
GERMAN
DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC.......37
GERMANY, FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF.....49
GIBRALTAR.......................350
GREECE...........................30
HUNGARY..........................36
ICELAND.........................354
ITALY............................39
LIECHTENSTEIN....................41
LUXEMBOURG......................352
MONACO...........................33
NETHERLANDS......................31
NORWAY...........................47
POLAND...........................48
PORTUGAL........................351
ROMANIA..........................40
SAN
MARINO.......................39
SPAIN............................34
SWEDEN...........................46
SWITZERLAND......................41
TURKEY...........................90
VATICAN
CITY.....................39
YUGOSLAVIA.......................38
*CENTRAL AMERICA
------------------------------------
BELIZE..........................501
COSTA RICA......................506
EL
SALVADOR.....................503
GUATEMALA.......................502
HONDURAS........................504
NICARAGUA.......................505
PANAMA..........................507
*AFRICA
------------------------------------
ALGERIA.........................213
CAMEROON........................237
EGYPT............................20
ETHIOPIA........................251
GABON...........................241
IVORY
COAST.....................225
KENYA...........................254
LESOTHO.........................266
LIBERIA.........................231
LIBYA...........................218
MALAWI..........................265
MOROCCO.........................212
NAMIBIA.........................264
NIGERIA.........................234
SENEGAL.........................221
SOUTH
AFRICA.....................27
SWAZILAND.......................268
TANZANIA........................255
TUNISIA.........................216
UGANDA..........................256
ZAMBIA..........................260
ZIMBABWE........................263
*PACIFIC
------------------------------------
AMERICAN SAMOA..................684
AUSTRAILIA.......................61
BRUNEI..........................673
FIJI............................679
FRENCH
POLYNESIA................689
GUAM............................671
HONG KONG.......................852
INDONESIA........................62
JAPAN............................81
KOREA,
REPUBLIC OF...............82
MALAYSIA.........................60
NEW CALEDONIA...................687
NEW ZEALAND......................64
PAPUA
NEW GUINEA................675
PHILIPPINES......................63
SAIPAN..........................670
SINGAPORE........................65
TAIWAN..........................886
THAILAND.........................66
*INDIAN OCEAN
------------------------------------
PAKISTAN.........................92
SRI LANKA........................94
*SOUTH AMERICA
------------------------------------
ARGENTINA........................54
BOLIVIA.........................591
BRAZIL...........................55
CHILE............................56
COLOMBIA.........................57
ECUADOR.........................593
GUYANA..........................592
PARAGUAY........................595
PERU.............................51
SURINAME........................597
URUGUAY.........................598
VENEZUELA........................58
*NEAR EAST
------------------------------------
BAHRAIN.........................973
IRAN.............................98
IRAQ............................964
ISRAEL..........................972
JORDAN..........................962
KUWAIT..........................965
OMAN............................968
QATAR...........................974
SAUDI
ARABIA....................966
UNITED ARAB EMIRATES............971
YEMEN ARAB REPUBLIC.............967
*CARIBBEAN/ATLANTIC
------------------------------------
FRENCH ANTILLES.................596
GUANTANAMO BAY
(US NAVY BASE)....53
HAITI...........................509
NETHERLANDS ANTILLES............599
ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON.........508
*INDIA
------------------------------------
INDIA............................91
*CANADA
------------------------------------
TO CALL CANADA, DIAL 1 + AREA CODE +
LOCAL NUMBER.
*MEXICO
------------------------------------
TO CALL MEXICO, DIAL 011 + 52 + CITY CODE+ LOCAL NUMBER.
To dial international calls:
International Access Code + Country code + Routing code
Example :
To call Frankfurt, Germany, you would do the following:
011 + 49 + 611 + (# wanted) + # sign(octothrope)
The # sign at the end is to tell Bell that you are done entering in all the
needed info.
OPENING COMBO LOCKS
[ Touched up by V.T - The Editor ]
First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock
is locked, there
is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on
the horseshoe shaped bar (known as the shackle) that is pushed
in to the lock
when you lock it.
To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired
combination and the
pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the
lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you
can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when you don't know the
combination to begin with).
To bypass this hassle, simply take a thinned hairpin (file it down) or
a
opened out piece of a collapsing antenna (the inside diameter of the curved
piece of metal should be the same as the diameter
of the shackle- if the metal
is too thick, use fine sandpaper to thin it down.
Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side
and break it off right
before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now,
using a file, file
down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many
hairpins and file them
so they are of different thicknesses so you can jimmy
various locks.
Look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell,
you will just have to try both
sides. When ya find out what side it opens
from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of
the
horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.
Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the
crack) and pull
the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the
pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing it to open.
Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a
Master lock before because of
the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone
does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is
very
tight so ya can't get the shim in.
-------Exodus
|
